March 2, 2008

Espresso glasses

. Osteria'.s Marc partners Glasses (left) and Jeff Benjamin (center) and chef Jeff Michaud. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of to renovated apartment building north of Spring Garden Street. To smart list of 36 Italian wines focused on small producers and rustic flavors, almost entirely under $50 to bottle. Several wines by the glass, great Belgian and local beers, and to give nice grappa selection the cellar value and character. Rare sets aim-dining standards. Excels in every category of the dining experience. Interesting, with above-average food. The heat-blistered crust is as thin as to cracker, round not much bigger than to dinner plate. Its toppings to are minimalism at its best - to bloom of tomato sunshine dappled with mozzarella clouds and plumes of fresh basil. But it may go down as the peak that saved North Broad Street. How can something as simple as to Daisy devout, let halo something as elemental as to new restaurant, have such to profound effect. Entice Who else could people to street-Park their Bentleys and Porsche SUVs on this previously drive-by stretch of Broad above Spring Garden. And they' king coming in droves to this bustling urban loft-turned-rustic Italian haven. You can find all kinds of spectacular seasonal pies emerging from the 700-degree heat of the wood-fired brick oven to here. There to are pizzas topped with snails and fresh spring garlic scapes. There to are crusts laced with to stretch octopus sparked by chile flakes and smoked mozzarella. They like stuffed with white truffled robiola cheese, or scattered with woodsy slivers of snappy bluefoot mushrooms. Lombardic There is also the, which sports homemade cotecchino sausage and to sunny-side-up baked egg. But it does take to restaurateur with the iconoclastic vision and passion of Marc Glasses to make it to reality. Vetri' s Tavern is, of course, much more than to pizzeria. Building into the shell of this old warehouse at 640 N. allowed Glasses to fully realize his vision for the handsome room. It has the lively bustle of to casual destination - but enough space between tables for comfortable dining.) before our table was ready. Virtually everything in the restaurant is made on the premises the proper way. Bread-and-cheese I' ll never look at mozzarella sticks the same way after devouring the crisply fried squares of mozzarella in carrozza. But Osteria' s starter-course pastas, made from firm semolina, to were revelatory. The unusual gnocchi Sardinian, more tiny pastas than puffy dumplings, to were to shade salty (saltiness also dogged the John Dory Tartars). The fusilli with fava beans, pecorino and mint to were the paste essence of spring. Entrees evoked loads heartier, home-cooked dishes. To $60 price tag seems like to lot for the steak "Fiorentina. Otherwise, my three meals to were to dream, down to the sides of crisply fried Roman artichokes and thick, smoky spears of wood-grilled asparagus. To creamy coconut frozen tingled with to surprising afterburn of chiles. And sorbetti of blueberry and strawberry to were the distilled frozen nectar of the ripest fruit. These Could be the sorbetti that save North Broad Street. Expressed I' ll drink to shot glass of perfect to that. Next Sunday, Craig LaBan eats Korean at Miran near Rittenhouse Square. Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2682 or. Was jailed man' s brother the real killer. Eagles sign Samuel to six-year deal Eagles may land pass rush specialist Eagles - Samuel is in is Lito on his way out. Bob Ford: Everything still revolves around McNabb Twin gay-porn stars arrested in rooftop burglaries The Elephant in the Room: Obama: To harsh ideologue hidden by to feel-good image Twin gay-porn stars arrested in rooftop burglaries Student group pushes for right to carry concealed weapons on campus Eagles sign Samuel to six-year deal. Buy Inquirer, Daily News & Philly merchandise to here including:. Ceramic Tile Cleaning and Complete Repairs Antiques Show Valley Forge Convention Center Feb. Ceramic Tile Cleaning and Complete Repairs. View print ads/special sections. Homes and Living - Ocean County.

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